![]() ![]() The plaster is thin and has no holding strength and the same goes for the laths that support it, so fixing in to either isn’t an option.Įven with the volume of fixings that are available today, as far as we are aware, no fixing is available for a good, solid, reliable fix to lathe and plaster. The major problem when fixing to lath and plaster is the fact that there isn’t anything strong to fix to. Image coutesy of Museum Resources The Problem of Fixing to Lath and Plaster When this happens, holes can easily form and the surface becomes very unstable and often becomes powdery to the touch.Ī section of a lathed wall with plaster removed. As the laths are very flexible they allow the wall to move, and as the plaster has degraded it often crumbles behind and in between the laths. The gaps between the laths allow the plaster to be pushed in, where is spills out behind each lath and once set, clings there forming a flat and solid surface.ĭespite this however, most lath and plaster walls and ceilings in homes in this country are at least 60 years old and due to this are well past their “sell by” date. ![]() It became widely used and started to replace lath and plaster by the 1930’s.Īs mentioned, to create a lath and plaster finish, the plaster is pushed onto and into the timber laths, which have been nailed to upright studs. Plasterboard took a while to catch on and was introduced to the UK in 1917. Lath and plaster is an extension of the wattle and daub idea and was used long after the invention of plasterboard by Augustino Sackett in approximately 1888. The daub was pushed, usually by hand, into the web of branches to forming a weatherproof surface, protecting the inside of the dwelling. Wattle was the name for twigs and branches that were interwoven between the upright timber posts that formed the framework of a dwelling.ĭaub was the name given to the various forms of mud, clay, lime, manure or other locally available, easily workable fillers that could be applied and smoothed onto the wattle. ![]() Lath and plaster was used as a wall finish long before plasterboard took over from the centuries old Wattle and Daub finish. ![]() It uses thin strips of timber spaced and fixed an inch or so apart that’s then fixed to a stud work frame that provides a surface for plaster to be applied to. Lath and plaster is a type of traditional wall finish, similar to plaster, that was first used around the 1700’s all the way up to the mid 18th century. This whole building was made without a piece of lumber most likely.Fixing to lath and plaster walls has always been a tricky problem and one that has always puzzled first time DIY’ers, however there are several solutions to this conundrum which we run through below. The door frames appear to be made of metal - no studs above them. There are concrete ceilinns and concrete floors and then basically all the walls are non loadbearing, with concrete pillars probably hidden deep inside somewhere.Ģ. It's an apartment building built in the late fifties early 60s. In answer to a couple of recurrent questions:ġ. This is a fabulous idea, as I do have access to both sides. Also thank you everyone for your super fast, varies responses. That way you are less likely to crack the plaster when you tighten the nuts. Even better, slip the bolts through a piece of EMT or other tubing that's as long as the wall is thick, and then put some big fender washers under the head and nut. Alternatively, if you have access to both sides of the wall, and a long enough drill bit, mount the board with bolts that go all the way through the wall. Toggles with the longest, widest wings you can find. That will, locally, turn the wall into an impromptu SIP. If the walls are as unsupported as you claim, you can make them rigid in the area where you're attaching things by pumping some expanding urethane foam insulation into the cavity. Wall cabinets are sometimes installed this way because it's so easily undone or adjusted. This system allows you to easily take down the hangboard and reconsider your wall mount system if necessary. Then simply hook one bevelled strip over the other. Mount the other on the back of the plywood that your hangboard is on, with the bevel down and its toe outward. If you've got access to a saw, you could also rip a couple of strips of wood or plywood or something with a 10 or 15 degree bevel along one edge, and mount one strip on the wall with the bevel up and its toe outward. ![]()
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